I met my spouse when I was presented with a beautiful German Shorthair Pointer who was “totally out of control” when out walking in public. Jas, my (now) spouses German Shorthair Pointer walked well on leash. She would sniff, but not pull, was attentive to her person, and would sit whenever her person stopped walking at crosswalks or otherwise. Sounds like a dream, doesn’t it? It was, until Jas saw another dog or man when out walking. Then she turned into a resurrection of Cujo, lunging, barking and snapping and trying with all her might to get to the “monster” that was invading her territory and causing her concern. It took every ounce of strength to hold her back when Jas went into Cujo mode. It was embarrassing, it was concerning, and it was getting worse. After meeting with several other trainers and gaining no reliable success Jas was brought to see me. I am happy to say that with a dedicated training program Jas fully recovered and was able to calmly walk past other dogs and men, end remain calm and self-controlled if her person stopped to chat.
Are you embarrassed to take your dog for a walk? Does your dog pull on their leash, lunging out at other dogs, people, bike riders or even cars and trucks when you are out walking? Does your dog bark, growl, snarl or even snap at or try to bite other dogs or people who come to close when you are out for walk? Having a reactive dog out in public can be exhausting, mentally, emotionally, and physically.
First off, I want to let you know that I understand and fully empathize with your situation. I have worked with countless wonderful dog owners, with otherwise fabulous dogs who have found relief from this situation through a well-structured and individualized training program.
Second I want to assure you that dogs who display On Leash Reactivity/Aggression can be helped. On leash reactivity and/or aggression is the single most common behavior problem I get called to help fix. With patience, a well-structured and individualized constructive training approach, reactive dogs can learn a calm and self-controlled behavioral and emotional state of being when out for walks in public places, with dog, human and moving vehicles distractions.
What is On Leash Reactivity/Aggression? On Leash Reactivity is a common term that can be used to describe behaviors stemming from frustration, fear to true aggression. On leash reactive behaviors such as lunging, barking, growling and snarling may look aggressive but these behaviors are often based in fear or anxiety.
When a dog is fearful they can take flight or fight. When on leash it is difficult if not impossible for a fearful or anxious dog to take flight as an option. Either their person continues to walk closer to the concerning situation, whether it be another dog, person, bike or other concern, or the concerning dog, person, bike , car or truck, motorcycles, etc.… continues to move towards them. Often owners are not knowledgeable, and therefore not attentive to the minor, or even major body signals that their dog is displaying that displays their concerns about the unfolding situation they are in.
What causes On Leash Reactivity/Aggression?
On Leash Reactivity/Aggression can have multiple causes. In an individual dog their can are often a combination of causes that come together to build upon the reactive aggressive behavioral response.
- Genetics: Fearful or timid dogs or puppies who are put in situations that are over their comfort threshold may start by displaying avoidant behaviors, tucking behind their people, avoiding social interactions. If their social concerns are not met with proper attention, and training these puppies and dogs can develop a defensive aggressive posture towards people or dogs that they find concerning. Many fearful and anxious dogs quickly learn that by lunging out and barking, growling snarling and/or snapping that they are able to keep the “monsters” away. As these behaviors generally work to ward of other dogs and people they dog is reinforced for their actions, and the reactive/aggressive behaviors continue to be expressed.
- Lack of early socialization or poor early socialization: Puppies who miss out on the opportunity to properly be socialized with other dogs, people, or even moving objects such as cars and bicycles can develop fear and anxiety concerns in general, but are also likely to develop on leash reactivity/aggression.
- Bad experience when on a walk: Puppies and dogs who have a bad experience with another dog or a person (or moving vehicle) may develop a fearful and defensive reactivity/aggression.
- Barrier Frustration: Some dogs may be the gregarious type and want to meet every dog or person they see. They might be the “high drive” type that wants to chase after every moving vehicle. The barrier of the leash creates a frustration that may lead the dog to lung out and bark. Over time this frustration can progress into anxiety and even aggressive behaviors.
- Punishment: When punishment is used to teach leash walking, especially when in conjunction with already existing reactivity/aggression it can exasperate the problem. Aversive training equipment such as e-collars/shock collars, pinch/prong collars or choke collars can quickly teach dogs to associate the pain of the collar and punishing correction with the sight of people, dogs or moving vehicles. This association can build on the dogs mistrust and reactivity/aggressive behaviors.
What is the best way to work with on Leash Reactivity/Aggression? When treating on leash reactivity/aggression the goal is to teach the dog a calm and relaxed, self-controlled and neutral “who cares” state of being when in the presence of the “monster”, whether that be other dogs, people, or moving vehicles. This is best achieved by combining three well tested and proven training methods. When applied correctly these training methods offer positive and lasting results.
- Counter Conditioning: is the ability to change an emotional response, such as from fear, anxiety frustration (aggression) to a calm and relaxed “no big deal” response.
- Systematic Desensitization: This is a process of exposing the reactive/aggressive dog to the concerning situation in controlled and graduating increments that will reduce the dogs sensitivity and reactivity.
- Differential Reinforcement of an Alternate Behavior (DRA’s): This is a fancy way of saying we are going to reinforce and build a new behavior pattern. An example would be, from lunging and barking to sitting calmly at your side, or walking calmly on a loose and relaxed leash past “monsters”.
I met my spouse when I was presented with a beautiful German Shorthair Pointer who was “totally out of control” when out walking in public. Jas, my (now) spouses German Shorthair Pointer walked well on leash. She would sniff, but not pull, was attentive to her person, and would sit whenever her person stopped walking at crosswalks or otherwise. Sounds like a dream, doesn’t it? It was, until Jas saw another dog or man when out walking. Then she turned into a resurrection of Cujo, lunging, barking and snapping and trying with all her might to get to the “monster” that was invading her territory and causing her concern. It took every ounce of strength to hold her back when Jas went into Cujo mode. It was embarrassing, it was concerning, and it was getting worse. After meeting with several other trainers and gaining no reliable success Jas was brought to see me. I am happy to say that with a dedicated training program Jas fully recovered and was able to calmly walk past other dogs and men, end remain calm and self-controlled if her person stopped to chat.
Are you embarrassed to take your dog for a walk? Does your dog pull on their leash, lunging out at other dogs, people, bike riders or even cars and trucks when you are out walking? Does your dog bark, growl, snarl or even snap at or try to bite other dogs or people who come to close when you are out for walk? Having a reactive dog out in public can be exhausting, mentally, emotionally, and physically.
First off, I want to let you know that I understand and fully empathize with your situation. I have worked with countless wonderful dog owners, with otherwise fabulous dogs who have found relief from this situation through a well-structured and individualized training program.
Second I want to assure you that dogs who display On Leash Reactivity/Aggression can be helped. On leash reactivity and/or aggression is the single most common behavior problem I get called to help fix. With patience, a well-structured and individualized constructive training approach, reactive dogs can learn a calm and self-controlled behavioral and emotional state of being when out for walks in public places, with dog, human and moving vehicles distractions.
What is On Leash Reactivity/Aggression? On Leash Reactivity is a common term that can be used to describe behaviors stemming from frustration, fear to true aggression. On leash reactive behaviors such as lunging, barking, growling and snarling may look aggressive but these behaviors are often based in fear or anxiety.
When a dog is fearful they can take flight or fight. When on leash it is difficult if not impossible for a fearful or anxious dog to take flight as an option. Either their person continues to walk closer to the concerning situation, whether it be another dog, person, bike or other concern, or the concerning dog, person, bike , car or truck, etc.… continues to move towards them. Often owners are not knowledgeable, and therefore not attentive to the minor, or even major body signals that their dog is displaying that displays their concerns about the unfolding situation they are in.
What causes On Leash Reactivity/Aggression?
On Leash Reactivity/Aggression can have multiple causes. In an individual dog their can are often a combination of causes that come together to build upon the reactive aggressive behavioral response.
- Genetics: Fearful or timid dogs or puppies who are put in situations that are over their comfort threshold may start by displaying avoidant behaviors, tucking behind their people, avoiding social interactions. If their social concerns are not met with proper attention, and training these puppies and dogs can develop a defensive aggressive posture towards people or dogs that they find concerning. Many fearful and anxious dogs quickly learn that by lunging out and barking, growling snarling and/or snapping that they are able to keep the “monsters” away. As these behaviors generally work to ward of other dogs and people they dog is reinforced for their actions, and the reactive/aggressive behaviors continue to be expressed.
- Lack of early socialization or poor early socialization: Puppies who miss out on the opportunity to properly be socialized with other dogs, people, or even moving objects such as cars and bicycles can develop fear and anxiety concerns in general, but are also likely to develop on leash reactivity/aggression.
- Bad experience when on a walk: Puppies and dogs who have a bad experience with another dog or a person (or moving vehicle) may develop a fearful and defensive reactivity/aggression.
- Barrier Frustration: Some dogs may be the gregarious type and want to meet every dog or person they see. They might be the “high drive” type that wants to chase after every moving vehicle. The barrier of the leash creates a frustration that may lead the dog to lung out and bark. Over time this frustration can progress into anxiety and even aggressive behaviors.
- Punishment: When punishment is used to teach leash walking, especially when in conjunction with already existing reactivity/aggression it can exasperate the problem. Aversive training equipment such as e-collars/shock collars, pinch/prong collars or choke collars can quickly teach dogs to associate the pain of the collar and punishing correction with the sight of people, dogs or moving vehicles. This association can build on the dogs mistrust and reactivity/aggressive behaviors.
What is the best way to work with on Leash Reactivity/Aggression? When treating on leash reactivity/aggression the goal is to teach the dog a calm and relaxed, self-controlled and neutral “who cares” state of being when in the presence of the “monster”, whether that be other dogs, people, or moving vehicles. This is best achieved by combining three well tested and proven training methods. When applied correctly these training methods offer positive and lasting results.
- Counter Conditioning: is the ability to change an emotional response, such as from fear, anxiety frustration (aggression) to a calm and relaxed “no big deal” response.
- Systematic Desensitization: This is a process of exposing the reactive/aggressive dog to the concerning situation in controlled and graduating increments that will reduce the dogs sensitivity and reactivity.
- Differential Reinforcement of an Alternate Behavior (DRA’s): This is a fancy way of saying we are going to reinforce and build a new behavior pattern. An example would be, from lunging and barking to sitting calmly at your side, or walking calmly on a loose and relaxed leash past “monsters”.
Don’t let the fancy words scare you off. In real life application just about any willing dog owner can easily learn these training methods and perform the training with their dogs safely and successfully. The key is to work with a knowledgeable and experienced trainer who can guide you through the important details and help you individualize this training to your own dogs training needs. Given this partnership success and calm relaxed walks with your dog are on there way!